But Hawaii
was good, too. Not at hot as I thought it would be at this time of year and
less humid than I had imagined. Kauai, the Garden Island, is mostly surrounded
by heavy surf, but we stayed in a house on Hanalei Bay, partially sheltered
from the swells of the north-east trades. This is where the single-handed TransPac
race from San Francisco ends. This is holy ground.
As the sun
went down at happy hour, I sat contentedly sipping a cold beer, watching 20 or
so anchored cruising yachts swaying from side to side like metronomes. It has been a long time since I was in an
open anchorage on a sailboat that did that, and I can’t really remember how
annoying it is. I do think, however,
that it seems quite reasonable compared with the motion you experience on the
open sea. Nevertheless, I was glad to be
sitting on an unmoving house deck near a large fridge with a heart-gladdening
supply of beverages, and enjoying a stunning view of the bay and its
magnificent backdrop of sheer mountains.
Hanalei Bay
is wonderful for swimming, and the occasional sets of breakers are ideal for
learner surfers. The water is warm and translucent. It feels like blood temperature after a
minute or two. The snorkeling is
surprisingly good around the corner from the bay, in places where it doesn’t
look like any fish should live. But they’re there, all right, perky little guys
in bright technicolor uniforms.
My first
experience of sit-on-top kayaking didn’t go well. I disgraced myself by having to drop out of a
group headed for the ocean after a short trip up the river. I was the only one in a single kayak, and I
couldn’t keep up with the doubles. My
shoulder hurt and my muscles ached. I’m obviously not in the shape I used to be
in. I’m a rower and a sculler. If they’d
been sculling I would have shown them something, shoulder or no shoulder.
The
zip-lining went quite well though, after I screwed up enough courage to fling
myself off those lofty towers. Nine
separate zips over river valleys, ravines, and forest canopies hundreds of feet
below. I even learned how to turn in
mid-air to face forward, instead of zipping along sideways or backwards like a
bag of dirty washing.
The only
sour note came at the end of the trip, at Lihue Airport, where a TSA security
guard patted me down, made me empty my pockets, and closely examined the
contents of my wallet. He was a natural bully, peremptory, and sarcastic to
boot, quite unfit to be dealing with the public. But he had the power to make
me miss my flight if I raised any objections, so I played the scared rabbit and
he lost interest in me. In days gone
past I had the upper hand in situations like this. I was a newspaper columnist and I would write
stories about what happened to me. I
named names and the bullies learned lessons.
Now, however, I’m just one of the great suffering hoi polloi and have to
take my lumps with the rest of them.
No matter.
It was a great vacation and it’s wonderful to be home.
Today’s Thought
Summer is the time when one sheds one’s
tensions with one’s clothes, and the right kind of day is jeweled balm for the
battered spirit. A few of those days, and you can become drunk with the belief
that all’s right with the world.— Ada Louise Huxtable.
Tailpiece
“Waiter,
there’s a fly in my soup.”(25) “Don’t put him on the cloth, sir, his feet are all wet.”
(Drop by every
Monday, Wednesday, Friday for a new Mainly about Boats column.)
3 comments:
"I was the only one in a single kayak, and I couldn’t keep up with the doubles."
The doubles were longer: HULL SPEED.
Maybe the olympians can exceed hull speed but it is the main determinant for mortals.
You know, that did occur to me at the time. But I was still the only onion in the petunia patch and it was demoralizing.
I also thought the single sit-on-top kayak stuck to the water excessively and didn't glide easily like a proper Eskimo kayak. It was probably extra beamy, to offer stability to paddling palookas like me.
John V.
Ouch! I'm sorry John, but no way is it possible for any man to steal away his family on a small boat voyage as you did and then have the word palooka even 'near' a sentence describing him.
Just saying!
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