March 4, 2014

A cruisers' parliament

The Disease Called Cruising
19. Our Beloved Leaky, Reeky, Tiki

IF YOU GO north on Hendrick’s Isle in Fort Lauderdale to where the sign says “Royal Retreat” and walk between the buildings toward the yachts moored in the canal, you’ll see the tiki hut beside the pool.

That’s our town hall, our pub, our meeting place, our parliament. As parliaments go, it’s not terribly imposing, but it’s well situated. From the tiki it’s only a few steps to any of our five boats.

Its open sides let in cooling breezes and its palm-frond roof keeps out most of Florida’s summer downpours. It leaks a bit and it reeks of suntan oil, but there’s a handy ledge all the way around at the right height to steady your hand so you don’t spill your beer while watching the ladies in the pool, and there’s room inside, at a pinch, for all eight of us.

It’s also our carpentry shop and paint shop when Steve’s not looking. Steve manages the apartments. He has trouble with visiting cruisers. We’re not supposed to do maintenance or repairs in the tiki hut. But heck, you can’t help it.

Sometimes, during the day, you just find yourself there, and in your hands there’s a piece of wood sawn neatly in two, or a table-top covered with fresh varnish, and you honestly have no recollection of how things came to be that way.

Mainly what we do in the tiki hut, though, is solve the world’s problems. There’s no subject too complicated for the combined brains of the tiki hut, no dilemma that can’t be solved, no one whose personality can’t benefit from a bit of friendly advice.

Bob and Susan’s problem is that Steve keeps hollering at them for using our pool. Their Prout catamaran is moored in front of the apartments next door, which have no pool of their own. So, naturally enough, Bob and Susan use our pool.

The tiki parliament solves the problem by making Bob and Susan our guests. The six of us with pool rights start an 18-hour daily rota system. We take it in turns to invite Bob and Susan, our comrades of the sea, to be our guests in the pool.

Steve does not take kindly to this. He decides to get even. He yanks the cable from the air conditioner in our shoreside bathroom. The bathroom turns into a sweatshop in the summer heat and humidity, but the oracles of the tiki hut take it in their stride. Worse things happen at sea, we say. And in any case our mighty brain power is finely focused on something else now.

We have this crab, you see. It lives in the sand just alongside the hut. One breakfast time, Bob discovers that it eats Cheerios. So, for the past three days we’ve been engaged on a scientific quest to establish whether crustaceans can also exist on Quaker Oats, Kellogg’s Corn Flakes, and Almond Delights.

One of our parliamentarians, Captain Crunch (so named for the difficulty he experiences in berthing his Morgan 42) proposed that we test Twinkies as well. But we vote him down. It’s a scientifically proven fact that Twinkies is not breakfast food, we assure him, and it would only muddy our research, invalidate our conclusions and perhaps even prevent the publication of our important paper . . .

I’ll tell you something: At the end of the month, when we all split up and move on, we’re going to miss our dear old tiki hut. But I’m thinking that Steve will be heaving sighs of relief.

Today’s Thought
A society like ours, which professes no one religion, and has allowed all religions to decay, which indulges freedom to the point of license and individualism to the point of anarchy, needs all the support that responsible, cultivated homes can furnish. I hope your generation will provide a firmer shelter for civilized standards.
— Alan Simpson, commencement address at Vassar, 31 May 65

Tailpiece
“What’s your opinion of bathing beauties?”
“Dunno. My wife’s never let me bathe one.”

(Drop by every Monday, Wednesday, Friday for a new Mainly about Boats column.) 

March 2, 2014

A night of quiet contentment


The Disease Called Cruising
18. So Nice When You Stop
IN ONE RESPECT at least, ocean voyaging is like hitting your head against the wall. It’s so nice when you stop.

Life offers the long-distance sailor few greater pleasures than the contentment of lying peacefully at anchor in a safe harbor after an ocean crossing.

For the first time in more than two months, a great silence has fallen over our 31-foot sloop, Freelance. Not since we left Cape Town 5,500 miles ago have we enjoyed a sheltered anchorage like this.

At St. Helena Island we bucked, rolled and tugged at our chain as the tradewind swells came romping around into the lee of the little island. At tiny Fernando de Noronha, 200 miles off the coast of Brazil, we lifted, fell, and tilted in rollers that crashed mightily on to the beach 100 yards ahead.

But now, after a boisterous 16-day passage from Fernando, we are lying folded in the arms of a large natural bight called Port Elizabeth harbor on Bequia island, near the southern end of the chain of islands forming the West Indies. Little cat’s-paws come skittering toward us across the flat water, darker patches on a midnight-blue sea sprinkled with quicksilver reflections of lights ashore. These little breezes spring against the bow in a popple of wavelets.

As I keep anchor watch, my wife, June, is stretched out serenely on a saloon berth, glad to be free of the stiff canvas leeboard she needs at sea.

My 17-year-old son, Kevin, is deeply asleep on the V-berth in the forecabin, limbs spread-eagled at odd angles as usual, his hair blowing gently in the warm draft from the open forehatch above him.

There is no clinking in the lockers any more. There are no alarming thumps against the hull. There is no rolling, no surging, no champagne-bubble hiss of waves passing the cockpit. Freelance has tucked her head under her wing, too. All is stillness and peace.

Ashore, where the palm trees are trying to touch their toes in the brisk tradewind, people and machines are making noises. After so long at sea, they sound strange to my ears, quiet but very clear, as if I were hearing them in a seashell.

I go below to shake Kevin. It’s time for his watch.

Back in the cockpit, I find June has come up for a breath of fresh air. We hold hands, sitting shoulder-to-shoulder in the dark night.

Kevin pokes his head up through the hatchway and rubs his eyes. He sits down in silence.

Ours is a deep and peaceful family love. This boat, this voyage, has bonded us tightly together. But in a few months, when we reach America, Kevin will go to college.

He will leave us and start his own voyage through life. He has proved himself a man on this trip. But he seems so young to abandon.

No matter. Time yet for a few more safe harbors. The West Indies lie strewn before us like pearls in wine. Time for a few more nights of quiet contentment like this before the sadness of parting.

Today’s Thought
There be triple ways to take, of the eagle or the snake,
Or the way of a man with a maid;
But the sweetest way to me is a ship’s upon the sea,
In the heel of the North-East Trade.
— Rudyard Kipling, The Long Trail

Tailpiece
Quote from a church newsletter:
“A pleasant time ended with the singing of hymns.”
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February 27, 2014

Practicing the big bang theory



The Disease Called Cruising

17. Gas by the Bucketful

IT WAS DURING the dog-days of an English summer. We were baking in a breathless calm alongside the wall in the harbor of Ramsgate. And we were in trouble. We had gas in our bilges.

The night before, we had brought the 72-foot ketch Thelma II into Ramsgate after a two-week cruise of Brittany. Someone had turned on a gas burner and forgotten to light it.

The gas being heavier than air, had sunk into Thelma’s deep bilges and escaped notice until morning.

We immediately shut off the supply at the bottles, opened every hatch and porthole, and rigged up the windsails to ventilate the boat. But another windless day had dawned and we waited in vain, creeping around the yacht with exaggerated caution, afraid of doing anything that might cause this floating bomb to explode.

We had a bilge blower, an electric fan that worked off the ship’s bank of 12-volt batteries. But neither Gary, the professional skipper, nor I, the mate, could bring ourselves to switch it on.

“They’re supposed to be spark-free,” said Gary, “but . . . “

“Yeah, it only takes one spark,” I said.

We explained the position to the owner and his two guests, who, with unseemly haste, made plans to go ashore for breakfast at a hotel as far away as possible.

“All we can do is pray for wind,” said Gary, “and be very careful not to make any sparks meanwhile. Don’t smoke. Don’t touch any light switches. Don’t turn on a radio. Don’t let metal touch metal.

We had never felt so helpless.

“If it’s in the bilges,” said the owner, stepping onto the quay, “why don’t you use a bilge pump?”

He left us with that thought. In fact we had two hand bilge pumps, besides the electric ones.

Gary shook his head. “Could be metal parts working against each other. I don’t like it.”

But it gave him an idea. “Tell you what,” he said, “We’ll bail it out.  Better than sitting here doing nothing.”

Within 15 minutes the residents of Ramsgate were being treated to a most unusual sight. The crew of the Thelma II would appear on deck, one after another, and solemnly pour seemingly empty buckets into the harbor.

Down below, we dipped our plastic buckets into the bilge and then slowly and carefully made our way on deck. It was difficult, at first, to know when your bucket was empty. You had to keep sniffing, and maybe pour some more. But, in the end, we figured that 30 seconds would do it.

That seemed a very long time, with people staring silently from the dockside. In true British fashion, they were too polite, too reserved, to ask what kind of lunatic ritual we were performing.

After nearly two hours we stuck our noses deep into the bilges, sniffed hard, and declared them gas-free. What little we hadn’t been able to scoop up had probably been sucked into our lungs and processed.

Just in case, we all went ashore while Gary stood at the cockpit controls and flipped the switch for a bilge blower. We saw his hand move. Then he grinned widely. It was working. No big bang.

“All r-i-g-h-t!” We cheered and yelled.

The natives shook their heads doubtfully and pretended to be studying seagulls.

Today’s Thought
Danger, the spur of all great minds.
— Chapman, Bussy d’Ambois

Tailpiece
Teeth is very nice to have,

They fills you with content.

If you don’t understand that now

You will when they have went.

(Drop by every Monday, Wednesday, Friday for a new Mainly about Boats column.)

February 25, 2014

The fizz that accidentally exploded

The Disease Called Cruising
16. Long Calm, Short Temper

I HAD BROUGHT on board a large bottle of Eno’s Fruit Salts, a white powder that fizzes when you put it in water. It’s supposed to cure indigestion and constipation, but I liked it to drink simply for the fizz.

It was hot and humid in the south-east trades and the yacht’s drinking water was warm, flat, and tasteless. Ours was a small sloop and we had no storage space for soft drinks. So every day I would drop a large spoonful of Eno’s into a mug of water and enjoy the sensation of a thousand little bubbles popping in my mouth.

We had been at sea for three weeks when I noticed that my good old friend Nick was helping himself to my Eno’s. Not only helping himself but flaunting the mug in front of my very face while he slurped away.

All four of us were feeling snappish at this stage, after six days of calms. Tensions build up easily on a small boat at sea, and calms make things decidedly worse. I knew this full well and I was determined to be very mature about this blatant and continuing theft. I would not indulge in the depths of pettiness to which the others had sunk in the past week. I decided to say nothing at all to Nick.

Quite obviously, he imagined the Eno’s Fruit Salts belonged to the ship’s stores. He didn’t realize that they were my personal elixir, a special treat that I had had the sense to provide for myself without depending on others all the time, as some thoughtless people do.

Nevertheless, even if he didn’t know they were mine, he should have asked. That, surely, is what a reasonable person would do, isn’t it? That’s what I would have done. In any case, no reasonable man could use as much Eno’s as Nick. He didn’t suffer from indigestion or constipation.  He just saw it and wanted it. You know the type. It’s a weakness, a character flaw that affects some people.

Every time Nick went past with his fizzing mug, grinning with asinine pleasure, I felt something tear my insides apart. Finally, I resolved to speak to him, lest by too much restraint I should cause myself some deep and lasting psychiatric harm.

I worked out a simple and graceful sentence, a jocular reminder that the Eno’s actually belonged to me, not the whole darned ship. But when it came time to say it, it came out differently. To my astonishment, what I said was: “Fer Chrissake keep your thieving hands off my Eno’s!”  Worse still, I shouted it.

Nick took one look at my slitted eyes and contorted face and jumped backwards, apologizing profusely.

Suddenly I was overcome with remorse. “I’m sorry,” I said. “That came out wrong. I didn’t mean that. Here, take the bottle. It’s yours.”

But no, he wouldn’t accept it. Wouldn’t dream of doing me out of my very own precious Eno’s, he said.

“Fer Chrissake take it and shut up!” I hissed.

Nick blinked his eyes like a spaniel whose master has just delivered him a swift kick in the crotch. He looked hurt and confused. He took the bottle and put it with the galley stores on the little shelf behind the stove.

And there it stayed for the rest of the trip, untouched by either of us.

Today’s Thought
I really can’t hate more than 5 or 10 years. Wouldn’t it be terrible to be always burdened with those primary emotions you had at one time?
— Han Suyin, NY Times, 25 Jan 85

Tailpiece
 “You say the tow-truck guy charged you $50 a mile for towing?”
“Yeah, but I got my money’s worth — I kept the brakes on all the way.”
(Drop by every Monday, Wednesday, Friday for a new Mainly about Boats column.)

February 23, 2014

Of bubbles in compasses


The Disease Called Cruising

15. Hello Kero, Goodbye Gin

BUBBLES IN COMPASSES are pesky things. Small ones don’t really affect the performance of the compass much, but they wobble and get magnified and attract attention to themselves all the time.

A bubble in your main steering compass is not only very distracting for the person at the helm but socially unacceptable, too. Sensitive visitors will ignore it, as they would a cockroach in the galley, but others more crass will comment loudly and make dire predictions about the accuracy of your landfalls.

Decades ago, when I started sailing, nearly all compasses developed bubbles. It didn’t seem to matter much. In fact it was a marvelous excuse to get out the gin bottle.

The compass fluid then was colorless alcohol, which didn’t freeze in cold weather. Gin was another colorless alcohol with warming qualities in cold weather. Furthermore, it was carried aboard every well-found sailboat. So we simply drove the bubbles out with gin, and then we swallowed some ourselves to celebrate our cleverness.

But expansion chambers and seals on compasses have improved over the years. Bubbles don’t occur as frequently any more.  Nevertheless, I thought I knew exactly what to do when my Sestrel porthole compass developed a bubble. I poured myself a large gin and shared it with the compass.

To my horror, the gin turned into a little glob of sludge that crouched menacingly at the bottom of the bowl, plainly visible to visitors.

I took the compass out, drained all the fluid, and took myself off to the Sestrel agent to get some more. To my astonishment, I learned that the modern manufacturers had abandoned alcohol while I wasn’t looking. They had gone over to a petroleum-based damping fluid. The Sestrel people called their fluid Sestroil.

As usual, it was unreasonably expensive. But that wasn’t the worst part. The agent simply didn’t have sufficient of the precious Sestroil to fill my whole porthole compass. They could let me have enough to top it up, to eradicate a bubble, but that was all. I said thanks, but it was too late for that.

Since the fluid in my compass was petroleum-based, I called the technical department of an oil company to see if they had a substitute. They were no help at all. They couldn’t help me unless I could furnish the technical specs of the oil required.

So I called the manufacturers of the compass, Henry Browne & Son, in Britain, to get the information. It turned out that they’d gone bust. There were plans to start production again, but meanwhile there was a world-wide shortage of Sestroil.

By now, however, I had the bit between my teeth. I had a friend who was a chemist, and by dint of some clever detective work he discovered that Sestroil was not the secret magic potion that Henry Browne & Son had made it out to be.  It was, in fact, basically kerosene.

So I filled my Sestrel with lamp-quality clear kerosene at a fraction of the cost of Sestroil and it worked perfectly.

Unfortunately, there’s no longer any excuse to get out the gin bottle to celebrate the birth of a new bubble, but there are compensations. For instance, it’s comforting to know that next time the kerosene cooker runs out of fuel at sea, all I have to do is drain the fluid from the compass.

Today’s Thought

Change as ye list, ye winds! In my heart shall be

The faithful compass that still points to thee.

— John Gay, Sweet William’s Farewell to Black-eyed Susan

Tailpiece

Demographers tell us that one in five people in the world is Chinese. There are five people in my family, so  one of us must be Chinese. It's not me. It's either my Mom or my Dad, or my older brother Fred, or my younger brother Hing-Cho-Cha. But personally I think it's Fred.

(Drop by every Monday, Wednesday, Friday for a new Mainly about Boats column.)

February 20, 2014

More helpful anchoring tips


The Disease Called Cruising
14. Anchor in Haste, Repent at Leisure, Part (b)

SOONER OR LATER you’re going to need help with your anchoring. Here are some helpful hints and tips.

Ø Ancient weather lore:

— “Red sky at night, anchorers take fright; red sky in the morning, anchorers take warning.”

— “When the rain’s before the wind, to your dragging anchor mind.”

— “When the wind’s before the rain, soon shall your anchor drag again.”

— “Rain before seven, drag before eleven.”

— “Rain from the west, drag two days at least.”

Ø Helpful proverbs:

A fool and his anchor are soon parted.

A watched anchor never drags.

Anchor as you would be anchored by.

Anchors of a feather drag together.

Feint heart never won fair anchorage.

If at first your anchoring doesn’t succeed, flee, flee, flee to a marina.

Least said, soonest anchored.

Nothing’s so badly anchored that it mightn’t be worse.

Small anchors please small minds.

The road to hell is paved with lousy anchors.

There’s no anchorer like an old anchorer.

To anchor is human, to forgive divine.

Whom God wishes to destroy, He first makes anchor.

Wise men learn from others’ anchoring; fools from their own.

Ø And finally: Worse things do not happen at sea.

Today’s Thought
The trouble with weather forecasting is that it’s right too often for us to ignore it and wrong too often for us to rely on it.

— Patrick L. Young, economist, author and entrepreneur

Tailpiece
What do you call a Frenchman who explodes a grenade on vinyl flooring?
Linoleum Blownapart.

(Drop by every Monday, Wednesday, Friday for a new Mainly about Boats column.)

February 18, 2014

The REAL rules of anchoring


The Disease Called Cruising
14. Anchor in Haste, Repent at Leisure, Part (a)

ANCHORING is a frequent cause of disappointment and vexation among cruisers everywhere. The root cause is always the same: Lack of education.

If cruisers were to study the rules of anchoring with the same enthusiasm they devote to stocking the liquor cabinet they would seen learn that any faith placed in an anchor is misplaced; and thereby they would be spared the disappointment and vexation generated by falsely high expectations.

As a service to those as yet untainted by misplaced faith, I append the following rules, helpful weather hints, and ancient proverbs.

The basic rules of anchoring:

(I) All anchors shall demonstrate a natural tendency to drag until it is time to set sail, whereupon they shall set solidly and remain set despite all efforts to raise them.

(II) No matter how well designed, no anchor shall hold unless it is heavy enough for the boat.

(III) Any anchor heavy enough for the boat shall be too heavy for the crew.

EXCEPT: In order that the experts shall be confounded and dismayed, a lightweight anchor casually tossed overboard by an idiot sailboat charter party shall always hold in any wind at any time on any bottom.

FURTHERMORE: If a proper watch be set against the possibility that the anchor shall drag, the anchor shall not drag.

(IV) If the wind shall change its directions, or the tide its flow, the yacht shall drag her anchor line over the anchor stock and foul it.

(V) If the anchor cable be rope, it shall chafe through and part.

(VI) If the anchor cable be chain, it shall capsize the anchor stock and the anchor shall drag forthwith.

(VII) The speed of dragging (E) in knots shall be determined by the formula MC2, where M is the distance in meters to the nearest rock, reef or perilous shoreline, and C is the skipper’s coefficient of panic as evidenced by yelps, bellows, or screams per minute (YBS/min).

Where C reaches relatively high values, say 10 YBS/min or more, E shall become infinite.

[Next column:  Anchor in Haste, Repent at Leisure, (Part b)]

Today’s Thought
Drop anchor anywhere and the anchor will drag—that is, if your soul is a limitless, fathomless sea, and not a dogpound.

— Elbert Hubbard, Epigrams

Tailpiece
A good-looking sailor with laryngitis knocked on the clinic door. A pretty nurse answered.

“Is the doctor here?” he whispered hoarsely.

“No,” she whispered back, “come on in.”

(Drop by every Monday, Wednesday, Friday for a new Mainly about Boats column.)