HERE ARE SOME HINTS AND TIPS for
anyone considering entering next year’s boat race from Washington to Alaska via
the Inside Passage. They’re contained in an article I wrote a couple of years
back for Small Craft Advisor
magazine, one of the sponsors of the 750-mile race, which has a first prize of
$10,000. It’s open to any boat without an engine.*
ALASKA HONEYMOON
Adventurous
newly-marrieds sail and row the Inside Passage to Juneau
IT WASN'T the kind of honeymoon
cruise most petite blonde brides dream of.
Four days after their wedding
ceremony, Elizabeth MacDonald and her brand-new husband Mike Kleps set sail on
a 900-mile cruise from Washington state to Alaska in an open, 15-foot racing
dinghy equipped only with sails and wooden oars.
The
Bellingham-based couple's goal for this marathon sail-camping trip
in the summer of 2011 was to experience nature at its wildest. And
experience it they did. For seven weeks they had almost daily encounters with
wolves, whales, bears, dolphins, sea lions, and eagles as they landed each
night at primitive campsites. They watched whales making bubble traps to catch
fish; a brown bear’s head wobbling from the salmon wriggling in its jaws;
gleaming white and blue Icebergs floating from tidewater glaciers. "We
wanted to feel the satisfaction that comes with bringing the hazy outlines of a
dream into bold reality," Mike explained.
Ignoring all kinds of warnings, this
adventurous, nature-loving couple doggedly rowed and sailed north in their
53-year-old boat, quietly dealing with the wilderness hazards of the Inside
Passage route through the Strait of Georgia and
Seymour Narrows into Johnstone Strait and north to Juneau. It was challenging sailing
as they fought fierce winds, fog, extreme tides, fast-flowing currents,
reefs, and lots of cold rain from
depressions spinning down from the Gulf of Alaska. In three areas they were
exposed to the full force of ocean swells from the North Pacific.
Hiker
and backpacker
Mike Kleps, a practicing lawyer and former public defender with a
background of hiking and backpacking, had traveled widely and walked the
Pacific Crest and Continental Divide Trails from border to border. During his
travels he visited Thailand, from where he sailed to Turkey in a 60-foot
sailboat as crew. For years he thought about a boat trip to Alaska. In 2005 he
actually built a kayak for the trip; but he decided he wanted to sail, and he
thought it would be too complicated to
add a rudder, leeboards, a mast, sails, and perhaps an outrigger. So he gave up
on that idea. Next, he and Elizabeth
bought a rowboat. But it wasn't big
enough to carry their camping gear. Then a friend died and Mike inherited a 15-foot
Albacore, an Uffa Fox-designed fiberglass planing dinghy called Hot Tuna.
Elizabeth, a licensed electrician
who works mainly on big commercial projects, had little previous sailing
experience. She was not particularly interested in the esoterics of sailing
itself; nevertheless she came to like it "Because when you're sailing
you're not rowing." After some
practice, she could row for an hour or so without rest, working two oars. Mike
says she's the most adventurous person he knows. And, like any good sailor, she
can sleep almost anywhere in any position—athwartships across the dinghy; on
her back in a floppy net hammock (bent
in half like a jackknifed semi); even on the bare marina walkway at Campbell
River.
They never even considered an
outboard motor. It didn't enter their thinking.
They wanted to experience Nature in the raw and make as little impact as
possible. So they fitted Hot Tuna with two sets of 10-foot oars and two rowing
positions, often rowing together with all four oars. They could row at 3 knots
and keep it up for hours. In fact, they made surprisingly good progress with
daily runs of more than 40 miles on occasion, sailing whenever possible and
rowing when it was not. There were also times when Elizabeth would man the helm
and sail the boat while Mike rowed—their equivalent of motor-sailing.
Inshore
counter-eddies
This trip emphasized the importance
of working the tides and they made good use of counter-eddies close inshore
when the current was against them. In addition, Mike often threw sticks out
into the water to gauge the current before setting off.
Their major daily concern was
finding a place to land and camp every night, one that had reasonably protected
water for the boat to float in. In their planning, they consulted two guides
written by long-distance cruising kayakers. They carried one small tent and
cooked on a small camp stove fueled with white gas. Although locals along the
way told them the summer was running three weeks late that year, it wasn't
particularly cold until they got far north. Even there, their sturdy rain gear
kept them dry, and exercise keep them warm.
Although Mike and Elizabeth were
cooped up cheek-by-jowl together in a 15-foot dinghy for several weeks, they
mostly managed to avoid conflict because their lives were filled with so much
physical and mental activity connected with sailing the boat, navigation, finding campsites, and cooking. However, they admit to three occasions when
tempers flared.
There were times, also, when the
weight of many warnings bore down heavily on Mike.
Before
the trip, a sailor at the Bellingham Yacht Club said, “No, you do not want to
do that.” He had just heard about their honeymoon plans. "His response was
like others," said Mike. "The trip was reckless, too hard; they
pictured us soaked by days of rain, rowing fruitlessly against winds and currents;
they weighed our degree of naiveté and saw us capsizing in strong winds on a
long crossing, far from help.
Even during the trip, fellow sailors
on yachts tried to persuade them that they were biting off more than they could
chew.
Intimidating
report
Mike's confidence was dealt a
further blow when he met three kayakers who had just rounded Cape Caution, the
next hazard on Hot Tuna's route.
"Their report was intimidating," said Mike.
"They had rain and fog every day. They rounded Cape Caution in
the fog, hearing waves crashing on shore and on rocks offshore. An inlet that
ebbed well past low tide, surprised them with strong current and big chop . .
. They had very detailed charts and
navigated in the fog by counting the minutes from one point to the next. They
noted that 25-foot tidal swings and big tidal flats made landings
challenging."
Naturally enough, Mike felt worried about the
days ahead. He had some rough moments of doubt due to the unfavorable accounts
by the kayakers and the general lack of confidence, from almost everyone, in Hot Tuna's ability to make it past Cape
Caution and on to Alaska. Perhaps things were just going to get too difficult
from here, he thought. He even tentatively suggested going home.
"But neither one of us was ready to go
home," he said. He had the full
support of Elizabeth . . . "and we managed to have faith in the value of
taking the trip one day at a time."
Mike also applied his experience as an estate planner in managing
risk and weighing it against reward. He
finally decided the risk was both manageable and worth it.
Needless to say, they got around
Cape Caution just fine, and never looked back all the way to Juneau, their
destination.
Elizabeth and Mike are modest about
their achievement and shy of dictating advice to others but one thing they
mention as very important is the need to find a workable method of anchoring
the dinghy offshore every night.
They used a 4-pound Bruce anchor on
8 feet of chain and 100 feet of line, ending in a block, through which was
threaded an endless 300-foot circuit of three-strand line leading back to the
beach. The boat itself was attached to this line so that they could haul her in
or out to the anchor line. In theory
this enabled them to let the boat lie at anchor 150 feet from the beach. It
wasn't a perfect arrangement because the three-strand circuit line sometimes
twisted on itself. "Perhaps a
different kind of line would have helped," said Mike. Nevertheless, it mostly did what they wanted,
and kept the boat floating through various stages of tide.
Narrow
and cluttered
They had considered sleeping on the
boat at night, but the Albacore is a fairly narrow and cluttered with gear.
Furthermore, the bilges were usually wet because there was a small leak where
an old hole in the bottom had been patched. Pulling the boat up on the beach
every night was not on the cards, not only because of the often-difficult
terrain, but also because even with rollers the boat (nominally 240 pounds) and
its 200 pounds of gear was simply too heavy for the two of them to manhandle at
the end of an exhausting day. They would also have had to be continually moving
the boat up the beach as the huge tides rose and fell. Low tides would, of course, leave the boat
stranded at the top of beach.
In the navigation department, they
had an Evergreen chart atlas, from which they tore out pages as they went; but
they also relied heavily on a rudimentary Garmin GPS chart plotter to find
their campsites. Mike complained that it didn't give them enough detailed
information—but, he admitted, it wasn't a marine GPS. "I'd like to see GPS
improved for small boat sailors and kayakers wanting to land on beaches,"
Mike said. "The software is out there."
Their strategy under sail was one of
caution. They had capsized in Bellingham Bay once during a practice run and didn't
want a repeat performance. They therefore reefed the mainsail early. The sail
had one deep set of reef points, and the area could be reduced further by
rolling it around the boom. When the wind was fair they used a distinctive spinnaker—one that Mike made from
a military surplus parachute. "It worked very well," he said.
Why
the hard way?
But why a windward passage, you
might ask? Why do it the hard way? Most long summer passages on the Inside
Passage are made from north to south because, in theory, the prevailing wind is
northwest and only disturbed by occasional southeasters bringing rain. But
their research revealed that reliable
facts were hard to come by, and notions about the direction of the prevailing wind
were often contradictory. Besides, the racing dinghy was efficient to windward,
and easily rowed. Whatever the case,
their choice was obviously justified by the fact that they regularly made
comparatively long daily runs.
"As it turned out," said
Elizabeth, "when wind was fair (from the south) it was mostly
raining. When it was sunny there was
either no wind or it was blowing too hard from the north to make
progress."
Before they left Bellingham,
Elizabeth made up boxes of provisions to be picked up at small towns along the
way. Their camping-style menu was necessarily limited, but one unexpected
favorite was old-fashioned pemmican. Elizabeth had bought tallow and mixed it
with shreds of beef dried in the oven, plus currants and maple syrup. "On its own it was pretty
unappetizing," she admitted, "but when we heated it with dry beans it
was great." It became, at least temporarily, their favorite dish and they
raved over it.
As for future plans, there is a
niggling background notion that it might be nice to sail around the world.
Before that, there might be a small boat they can actually sleep on.
Meanwhile, when friends ask them how
their marriage is going, they say with a wink: “It’s
gotten a lot easier after the honeymoon.”
Sidebar
1
Sailing
vs. rowing
Here
are Mike and Elizabeth's rough estimates of how
the trip went:
Ø Mostly sailing—33 percent
of the days.
Ø Some rowing, some
sailing—50 percent of the days.
Ø Mostly rowing—16 percent
of the days.
"Sometimes
we would sail 25 miles by noon and call it a day. A few times we rowed in the
morning and then caught a breeze in the afternoon and would make 45
miles."
Sidebar
2
Weather experienced
Mike and Elizabeth offer the following estimates of weather
conditions during the trip:
n Very rainy—20 percent of the time.
n Cloudy with some rain—25 percent of
the time.
n Some sun—55 percent of the time.
"The
word from the locals and boaters along the way was that the summer was wet and
cold, and everything was three weeks behind schedule, including salmon, orcas, and bears. We had two weeks of
mostly sun before we had our first cold, rainy day. For many of those rainy
days, we managed to be in towns (Port Hardy, Namu, Prince Rupert, Petersburg,
or Ketchikan) for the worst of it."
Three
sections of the trip were exposed to ocean swells: (1) Cape Caution; (2)
Milbanke Sound; and (3) Dixon Entrance. "We carried a VHF radio and
barometer, which we used to check the weather before making long
crossings."
Sidebar
3
The winners
Mike and Elizabeth won Bellingham
Yacht Club's "Boating Family of the Year" award for 2011. They left Hot Tuna in storage in Juneau and put
her up for sale.
Sidebar
4
Albacore specs:
Hull type: Centerboard dinghy
LOA: 15.00 feet
LWL: 14.83 feet
Beam: 5.33 feet
Max. draft: 4.75 feet
Sail area: 125 square feet
SA/Disp: 51.83
Weight: 240 pounds
Rig: Fractional sloop
Designer: Uffa Fox
Material: Wood or fiberglass
First built: 1954
Number built: 8,000 +
U.S. Albacore Association:
http://usaa.albacore.org/
Today’s
Thought
Life
ought to be a struggle of desire toward adventures whose nobility will
fertilize the soul.
— Rebecca West
Tailpiece
For all of you vegetarians
who have been lusting after a nice juicy piece of organic verse, here’s
something to chew on:
The
vegetable broccoli,
While
not exoccoli,
Is
within an inch
Of
being spinch.
(Drop by every Monday,
Wednesday, Friday for a new Mainly about Boats column.)